Sumitake fry x12

10 Sumitake fry,

First picture is of adults for reference 

Shipped 24 hour tracked, on Monday or Tuesday

 Someone will have to be home to accept parcel 

The first setup

For a beginner, I’d use a small shallow tub rather than an aquarium.

Good starting setup:

10–20 litre plastic tub

Dechlorinated water

Depth around 10–15 cm

Temperature roughly 20–26°C

Gentle light

A small amount of floating plant or moss

No strong filter

You don't need an expensive aquarium.

2. Let the water mature

If possible, prepare the fry tub several days before adding the fry.

A little established aquarium water or some mature media can help introduce beneficial microorganisms.

Avoid making the water absolutely sterile — tiny organisms in mature water can actually provide additional food for very young fry.

The most important part — feeding

Newly hatched medaka are tiny.

For the first few days, don't rely on large pellets or normal adult food.

You want very fine particles.

A good progression is:

Days 1–7

Very finely powdered fry food

Tiny amounts 3–5 times per day

Green-water/microorganism-rich water is helpful

Week 2

Continue powdered food

Gradually increase the amount

Introduce slightly larger particles as the fry grow

Weeks 3–4

Powdered food plus increasingly larger fry food

Feed around 3 times daily

After about 4 weeks

They can generally move toward normal small medaka food depending on their size.

5. How much food?

This is where beginners often go wrong.

Don't dump a lot in at once.

Give them an amount they can consume relatively quickly. You want to see tiny particles being eaten rather than food accumulating on the bottom.

If you're using something like powdered Otohime, that's particularly useful because you can make the particle size appropriate for very small fry.

6. Water changes

Young fry don't appreciate huge sudden changes.

I'd rather do:

10–20% water changes regularly

than suddenly change 50–80%.

Use water that's:

Dechlorinated

Similar temperature

Similar parameters

A small airline tube is excellent for gently siphoning debris.

Tip: Put the end of the siphon through a fine mesh/net so you don't accidentally suck up fry.

7. Filtration

For tiny fry, strong filtration can be dangerous.

If you want filtration, use a very gentle air-driven sponge filter.

Alternatively, a planted/mature fry tub with careful water changes can work extremely well.

8. Plants are your friend

I'd add some easy plants such as:

Java moss

Guppy grass

Hornwort

Floating plants

They provide:

Cover

Surface area for microorganisms

Security for fry

Additional biological filtration

9. Don't overcrowd them

This becomes increasingly important as they grow.

If you have 100 fry in a small container, they may initially look fine, but growth and water quality can deteriorate quickly.

As they grow, split them into additional tubs.

10. Watch for these warning signs

Fry dying shortly after hatching → Often poor water quality, unsuitable food, or developmental problems.

Fry have pinched/curved bodies → Can be associated with poor nutrition or water conditions.

Lots of uneaten food → You're feeding too much.

Water becomes cloudy/smelly → Reduce feeding and perform a partial water change.

Fry suddenly disappearing → Check filtration and make sure larger fry aren't eating smaller ones.

⭐ My ideal beginner setup

If I were starting from scratch, I'd do:

15–20 L shallow tub

↓

Dechlorinated water

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A little mature biological material

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Java moss/guppy grass + floating plants

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Gentle sponge filter OR no filter with regular small water changes

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22–25°C

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Very fine fry food 3–5× daily

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Small regular water changes

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Separate/split fry as they grow

The biggest beginner mistake

Overfeeding.

People think "the fry need lots of food because they're growing" and end up putting too much food into a tiny volume of water.

It's better to give small feeds frequently and keep the water clean.